Visiting the Vatican

Part I Part II

by Enzo Ardovini

Views from the Vatican Cupola

There is so much to gaze upon from the Cupola and on this perfect weather day we settled there for a while along with many other people who had made the same pilgrimage.  When the batteries in our digital cameras were threatening to die we started a sedate desent, and eventually were way down in the center of the church looking upwards at where we had just been.  On entering the basilica it is impossible not to be overwhelmed by its grandeur. It is afterall, one of the largest churches in the world.  At this time of the year (the end of Summer) the Vatican is full of people, both worshippers and tourists alike who seem to find their own order en-mass, and we all work our way anti-clockwise around the right wall of the main isle.

The next memorable image you will have is that of Michelangelo's Pietà, which he completed at the tender age of 24 years old.  Our son took the following photograph and I seem to remember him telling me how difficult it was to do so.  When you stand before the Virgin Mary as she cradles her dead son Jesus in her arms after his crucifixion, you cannot help but get a sense that you are intruding upon her eternal silent grief.

The Pietà by Michelangelo

Around the walls of the Basilica are smaller chapels, monuments and alters dedicated to Kings, Queens, Popes and Saints.  For example the monument of Queen Christina of Sweden, who abdicated in 1654 in order to convert to Catholicism.  One of the largest chapels is that of the Blessed Sacrament with it's wrought iron gates and windows, and a notice that reads "Only those who wish to pray may enter."  And there are many people who do.  Although when we visited the Vatican in January, it seemed to be a more quiet place for worship.

Perhaps one of the most intriging curiousites of the Vatican is the body of Pope John XXIII who died in 1963, and who has been laid beneath the Altar of St. Jerome.  Pope John XXIII was moved into the basilica from the catacombs in 2001 at the request of Pope John Paul II who believed that followers of St. Jerome would wish to pray over him.  During the relocation of his body it was necessary to open his coffin where they found that his body was miraculously intact.  He was therefore placed under glass and many people who pass him are curious to know if he is real, and some are genuinely horrified to see him there.  What ever your reaction may be, it's important perhaps to understand that he has been rested with great compassion and thought to his lifes works.

The Tomb of Pope John XXIII

We continued with the crowds onto the left side of the main isle, but not before passing Bernini's baldacchino. A baldacchino is a canopy and this particular one sits over the Papal alter in St. Peter's. It also stands majestically above the resting place of many holy relics, and marks St. Peter's tomb and that of many other Papal resting places.  It also stands directly beneath Michelangelo's Cupola, which was completed in 1593 after his death in 1564. The baldacchino is apparently made up of 927 tons of dark bronze which had been reclaimed from the Pantheon roof in 1633. It stands an absolutely staggering 90 feet tall.

Bernini's baldacchino or canopy

It took Lorenzo Bernini 9 years to create between 1624 and 1633 and the design is said to reflect that of the original baldacchino of St. Peter's built by Constantine in AD330, and which legend has it came from Solomon's Temple in Jerusalem.  There is so many details that go to complete this work, that you can sense the passion of those who finally pulled it all together.  It is arguably the most proudly dramatic of all the works within the basilica.

"Eh Sue, you seem very quiet over there."

"Enzo I was just thinking how wonderful it was to be able to take Mum here.  I've seen the Duomo in Milan which is more impressive from the outside than the inside to be honest, but they both take your breath away.  Mums response was to wonder where the first brick was laid.  It's barely comprehensible that human's have the capacity to create such beauty.  Every nook and cranny is adorned with something... Anyway, carry on I'm listening."

As we passed St Peter's alter, and continued down the left side of the basilica, suddenly and without announcement the Vatican Secret Police together with the Swiss Guard walked out of an impressively large door and made a path among the visitors. They quickly and efficiently ushered what must have been a very important personality into the Vatican chapel and the Alter of St. Joseph.  I looked closer and .... no it was not the Pope, but who was he?  Why all the fuss, I bet if he had walked out without a fanfare no one would have been the wiser, I surely didn't recognize the man. The three of us were already seated on one of the back rows of chairs in the chapel and decided to remain to hear the mass.

The Alter of St. Joseph

She was impressed by the cardinal and even more impressed that we were only feet away from the person that would be in charge of one billion faithful (at least temporarily) if the current Pope were to die.  At that point my head was held high, after all, because of me Susan was sitting near the most powerful man on earth (after the Pope).

"Excuse me. Susan and I got married just a few months ago in Florida, and we are now in Rome to celebrate our union with our family, do you think the cardinal would bless our rings?"

The man looked at me again, this time Susan was trying to pull me away thinking that any minute now we were going to be stormed out of the church and she figured she better try to make me stay quite.  The man still looking at me said with a soft voice, " I really do not think it is possible."  Soon after he had spoken, the mass came to an end and he proceeded to walk towards the cardinal to escort him back to his quarters... as the Cardinal passed us, the secret policeman turned to me and said "please follow us."

With a rapid grab of her arm, I pulled Susan to her feet with me and she in turn tried to grab Mom.  But before she could do anything Susan and I were walking inline and following the cardinal.  Our procession made for an impressive sight.  Leading the way were two members of the Swiss Guard. They were followed by Secret Service men who were protecting the cardinal following them. Then there was our Secret Service man, Susan and I and two more Swiss Guard.  How fabulous is that?????? The people in the church looked on at us as if we were  very important.  I desperately wanted to cry out to them:  "yes we are important.  We are Sue and Enzo from Merritt Island, Florida,"  but decided that quietly following the people in front of me was the better idea.  Also in all my excitement and given my present situation, it was prudent to avoid tripping over my own feet!

After a few minutes Cardinal Comastri moved towards us.  I could barely contain myself and stood as calmly as I possilbe before the presence of this enigmatic figure.  And then he spoke: "I understand that you two married not long ago?"

I carefully dared to look him in the eye simply saying "yes...."  as I did so I quickly glanced at Sue and seeing that she was filling with emotion, I took her hand in mine. I then explained who we were and where we were from and asked "would you be so kind as to bless our wedding rings?"

He spoke gently "it would be an honor to do that for you both."

We all bowed our heads and he proceeded to say a prayer holding both our hands in his. His was the only voice in the room and for a moment I imagined this to be heaven.  We listened to his prayer and when he was finished we talked for a short while and then he said, "please stay here, I will be back in a few minutes."  Susan and I stood still, barely able to believe what had just happened.

At that point I looked at the now gentle face of our Secret Service man and said "I cannot believe what just happened!"

He smiled a small smile and said "ask and you shall receive."

Sue and I had just received a miracle and after about five minutes Cardinal Comastri returned carrying something in his hands.  It was a pair of rosaries, one black and one white.  He handed one each to Sue and I and explained "this is a gift to celebrate your union."  We thanked him and I almost said to him, if you are ever near Cocoa Beach, come over and see us at the café.  Instead we stood and waited for Cardinal Comastri to make his leave and disappear through a large door our left, and perhaps on to his private quarters.  As all the other cardinals dispersed we were escorted from whence we came - the main hall of Saint Peter's by a pair of Swiss Guard, where Mom had been patiently waiting.  She was mesmerized at Susan's telling of our adventure as we walked towards the main doors of the basilica and the St Peter's piazza beyond.

The piazza was being prepared for the next day, when the Pope would have his weekly audience outdoors.  I still had no tickets and  Vinny Two Toes was nowhere to be found.  It was time to check with the Swiss Guards' office again to see if my tickets had arrived - but I was not in luck. However the guard was nice enough to tell me that the event was only 85% full and that if I came in early enough tomorrow I could try again. Evidently without the help of Cousin Vinny I thought.

The next day bright and early we headed back to the piazza.  Once there I managed to get back inside the Swiss Guards' station where again they told me there was nothing there for me. But before I could become really disappointed I was directed to another office just one more flight of stairs away to the right.  It was just before 9 am and time was of the essence. I looked at Sue and said "be right back."

Once upstairs, I entered a dark room and an old man asked if he could help me.  I started to explain that my Cousin, Vinny Two-Toes had arranged for me to pick up some tickets.  I hesitated and asked if they were holding tickets for Enzo Ardovini.  He searched and searched and continued to search until eventually he looked up at my worried expression and said "yep here they are, 3 tickets right?"

I could have kissed him! I signed a log book and clutching my tickets went in search of Susan and Mom.  I found them standing next to one of the grand columns that encirle the piazza and waved to get their attention.  As they got closer I could no longer contain myself and with a big smile proclaimed "I've got them! We better hurry ... look, people are already taking up the better seats!"  So we got in line where I found myself checking to make sure that the tickets were for today, because by this time next week we would be heading back to Florida.  They were for today, but I continued to examine them and eventually turned to Susan and said  "look at the tickets, our tickets are brown and all the other people in the line have blue ones.  I think Cousin Vinny got us nose bleed tickets... You know, ones for way out there .were we'll need binoculars to see the Pope!  Well never mind.  At least we are in, and besides look at those big screens! We'll still be able to see what is going on."

We made our way to the check point and went through the metal detector. Once on the other side a gentleman offering directions looked at our tickets and said "You are in the wrong line ... go to the right and follow the barricade to the very end, then show your tickets to the next Swiss Guard..."

We started to walk.  I looked at Sue, she looked at me as we passed all the people in the 'standing-room only' area on our way to the next check-point where another gentleman looked at our tickets. He waved his hand in the air directing us to the right and up some steps "someone there will direct you further..."

"But... but... that is where the Pope is.....!"

The man looked at us, smiled and said  "... yes it is....."

Play Spot the Pontif

I was walking on air as the usher directed us to the fifth row, very close to where the Pope would be sitting.  I could see every detail of the chair he would be sitting on.  One hour later the Pope entered the square in his Pope mobile  following the path around the calumniates, through the centre of the piazza to the bottom of the steps which led to his big chair under the canopy with the Vatican as a back drop.  Once he had reached the top of the steps, he turned to wave at the excited crowds of people around him.  He went to his chair and from there the ceremony began.

Enzo! Say Hi!

It had been less than 24 hours before that we had been within inches of Cardinal Comastri and now, on this beautiful sunny day in Rome, we were sat a few rows away from the Pope.  How sweet is that.  And how blessed are we that not only did we get to experience something quiet unique, but that we can share our moments here with you.

We hope that you have enjoyed our little adventure, and will visit us from time to time as we recall many more from the past and still more to come in our future. And again we have so many photographs that we could share with you....

"and there is so much more to this story too Enzo!"

"I know, but maybe we'll save the rest until another time..."

This epitaph was found in Roman France

More Reading/Acknowledgments:

Wikipedia

Daily Roman Life

Explore the St. Peter's Tomb with Cardinal Angelo Comastri

St. Peter's Tomb

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